Camel trains may be passing Morocco for centuries, but these days it is more common to find travelers crossing the country by rail. This modern version of the caravan connects four historic capitals, transporting passengers from Tangier in the north to the red city of Marrakesh in the center of the country. Plus, why take one city break when you can do five?

I used this route during my 10-day journey, which started from Tangier and stopped in Meknes, Fes, Rabat and Marrakech. (All trains in Morocco are operated by the country’s national railway operator. Office National des Chemins de Fer.) Taking the train meant I could visit places that many tourists might miss (like Meknes), allowing me to see sights through the windows that I would otherwise miss from the road, especially on the last leg of the journey to Marrakech.

It also allowed me to get a real taste of daily life and interact with local people. For me, these connections are the real joy of traveling, regardless of the mode of transport, and trains are the fast track to these interactions in one of the most hospitable and hospitable countries I have ever visited. If I were to go back, I would explore the country by train; There’s no better way to travel to northern Morocco.

Tangier

Perched on the tip of Morocco, Tangier It is the gateway to the country from Europe. It is a city that has long attracted the attention of travelers from all directions and whose influence on the art and culture of the 20th century is firmly stamped. Here the whitewashed walls change color with the sun and a gentle sea breeze blows through the streets. The city is located on a cliff, and winding streets roll towards the water, passing through souks; This ensures that all visitors find themselves lost among the maze of shops pushing everything from traditional hand-woven rugs to the assorted holiday photos left by tourists for decades. before.

Spend your first evening wandering the streets and stumbling upon the Al Hafa viewpoint, where locals host impromptu photo shoots against the hazy Mediterranean backdrop. To settle in for the show, walk over to: Cafe Hafa. Installed in 1921, the building resembles an amphitheater tumbling down the side of a cliff. This isn’t a well-kept secret, so it may take some time to find a place. But once you’re settled in, it’s easy enough to grab a cup of Tangier’s special iteration of Morocco’s famous mint tea from one of the servers wandering around the tables.

As the last colors in the sky fade, make a path back. kasbah (castle) and MedinaWhere trading continues until late at night. (A Medina is a historical part of a city.) Stop for a meal or a coffee and watch life unfold around you. Anyone expecting Morocco to be a complete culture shock will be surprised by how much familiarity there is about Tangier, thanks to the many writers and artists whose imaginations have been captured by the city, from Eugène Delacroix and Henri Matisse to the Rolling Stones. Maybe you can even touch the artistic environment of the city with a movie. Tanger CinemathequeThe first North African cinema cultural centre, currently located in the 1938 Cinema Rif building in Grand Socco.

meknes

If Tangier has an element of familiarity, next stop Meknes is a step in the other direction. The journey takes a few hours and there is a choice of slow train or high-speed TGV starting from Tangier towards Casablanca.

For a few extra dirhams, a first-class ticket will get you a spacious seat with a table and sockets, but change is required at Kenifra. From here, take the train to Fes. From this point on, first class seats are in compartments, and second class seats are airline style. In both, large windows open to the rapidly passing landscape.

There is no better way to spend this time than looking out over the landscape, where clusters of houses appear over rocky gorges and small glimmers of life appear in what would otherwise be a barren landscape; at one point a man cantering his horse alongside the railway. or another who transports his goods to a nearby market in an old motorcycle truck.

Meknes is relatively unknown among international visitors, giving an idea of ​​how many of its more famous counterparts might have felt just a decade or two ago. Today, Medina is going through a transformation; One minute you’re walking on uneven rubble, the next you’re walking on freshly laid bricks. In the summer months, the temperature can reach up to 70 degrees and there is hardly anyone around.

The town encourages visitors to embrace the Moroccan pace of life. Take the morning slowly and never rush into the midday heat. Consider spending the early afternoon instead. Dar Jamai MuseumThe history of Moroccan music is discovered within the walls of a 19th-century palace.

As the weather gets colder, life begins to liven up in the sleepy streets. Here, many more shops, whose doors are wide open and invite passers-by to chat, are occupied by artisans working on their crafts.

From Meknes, a day in Volubilis and a visit to the country’s holiest city, Moulay Idriss, are strongly encouraged. Although they are not on the train line, they are a short taxi, bus or combi taxi ride away. The ancient town of Volubilis is the main attraction here and you can easily spend a few hours wandering the ruins, but don’t skip the town and its lively square. Spend the night here and take a taxi directly to Fes, or return to Meknes and continue your journey by train.

Fez

With its crowded alleyways full of vendors competing to deliver their wares to passersby, Fes truly lives up to Morocco’s international image. It’s steps away from the cities earlier in this itinerary.

The city is located in a valley where the market rises and falls from narrow streets. The intimate architecture adds to its vibrant nature, and the city rarely opens up to squares. There are a few, though, and a stroll through the Jnan Sbil Gardens is a good way to relax for a moment.

Known as the capital of artisans, Fes is a paradise for anyone looking to shop, but be prepared to bargain and bargain hard. Most famous attraction? Leather tanneries have been an integral part of the city’s economy for centuries.

A short trip to the Marinid Tombs, especially at sunset, is a must to understand the city as a whole and watch the sunlight illuminating the nearby fields and mountains. Catch a taxi back into town and stop for a drink on a rooftop from where you can see the city and its flickering lights. Throughout Morocco, the call to prayer recited late at night is a reminder of the country’s magic; The same thing applies here. This is a very close call to this day, after all the chaos in the markets below.

Rabat

The next stop along the coast is the capital. From Rabat-Ville station, step onto the wide Boulevard Mohammed V and Medina It already gives an idea of ​​the unique character of the city. Like Tangier, Rabat has been shaped by multiple waves of influence and rule since the ancient Phoenicians and Mauretanians. Rabat has been the capital of the Kingdom since its independence from France in 1955. The architecture preserves this history, from the medieval Islamic Kasbah of Udaya to the Colonial-era neighborhoods and beyond.

Medina It’s fascinating in itself, but it’s actually the museums that stand out in the capital. From the National Museum of Photography in the ruins of the 19th-century Burj Kebir Castle to the Museum of Contemporary Art, Rabat is an opportunity to slow down a bit and get away from the commercial spirit that dominates many Moroccan cities.

In the evening, walk down to the beach, see the Salé across the river Bou Regreg, and continue down the coast for another sunset over the ocean – just this time, over the Atlantic. From here head back through the maze Medina and embrace getting lost. Admire the shops filled with antique teapots, Berber jewelery and a variety of colorful ceramics. As for food, those who are tired of tagine can be satisfied with the West African restaurants located in the city. Medina.

We’re just over an hour from Rabat, the country’s largest city, to Casablanca, but that’s an acquired taste and those with it will probably find two days too short. Instead, take a direct train to Marrakech; It’s less than four hours away.

marrakesh

The line ends in Marrakech, right on the edge of the Atlas Mountains and the Sahara Desert. The red city is probably the best-known city in Morocco and has long been an important place for trade. Old town Medina It is a UNESCO World Heritage siteCrowds jostle to examine the products laid out on the streets and hear bartering sounds in more languages ​​than we can count.

Markets and the verbal fights that come with them can be overwhelming, but if you’ve chosen the north-to-south itinerary, these skills should be well-honed by the time you arrive in Marrakech. It is best to do this in the evening. Medina It comes to life as the burning heat turns into dusty heat.

In the main square, Jemaa el-Fnaa, the busiest square in the entire continent, buy food and fresh juice from numerous stalls where vendors go to extreme lengths to compete with each other for visitors’ attention. Despite, or perhaps because of, the hustle and bustle, Marrakech offers a few more tranquil spots. Jardin Majorelle And Yves Saint Laurent Museum.

And although this is the end of the train line, it’s easy to add a day or two in nearby Atlas Mountain towns like Imlil or the Agdal desert for a slower-paced break before the journey home.