Greek restaurant Christos in St. It’s been eight years since St. Paul’s Union Depot closed its downtown location.

A few more restaurants came and went, but the first outfit whose power I felt was here. 1881 by Lake Elmo Inn comes from the people who know history in a restaurant.

Both the Lake Elmo Inn and the Union Depot opened in 1881, making it a popular choice in St. Paul inspired the name of the field. And owners John and Christine Schiltz have been with the Lake Elmo Inn since the 1980s.

The menu in 1881 is actually a shortened version of the one at the Lake Elmo Inn, dominated by wild rice, lake fish, duck and Hereford beef.

On a recent visit, I brought two city residents who hadn’t been to the Lake Elmo Inn to try the menu and tell me honestly whether they planned to return.

The venue has been transformed into a club atmosphere with dark wood cladding and cozy booths, and it just felt right to start with a few cocktails. From the Hot Honey (a simple mix of gin, lemon, and hot honey) to the cranberry/rosemary reduction-infused fall margarita, the aquavit bloody Mary, and the barrel-aged Manhattan, they were all excellent.

We started with Reuben truffle and orange duck “eggs” which we didn’t realize were not real eggs. Both the basically stuffed burrito and the delicious Reuben truffle stuffed with corned beef and sauerkraut were winners. Maybe because we ate the Reuben version first, but the duck version stuffed with duck, wild rice, vegetables and fontina was bland in comparison. I think next time I’ll try the classic shrimp cocktail or provoleta (grilled provolone cheese with tomato sauce).

We also ordered the diced sliced ​​salad, which I was excited about because I thought it would be easier to share than traditional diced wedges. The ingredients were all perfect, including the delicious homemade ranch dressing) but it was served in a deconstructed way so everyone could choose what was in their own little salad. Even though it’s new, I think I’d rather have the chef toss my salad.

One of my guests is a big fan of French onion soup, so we ordered the 1881 version, a beautiful, perfectly seasoned version topped with the requisite giant croutons and melty swiss.

As for appetizers, I ordered the panko-breaded walleye fillet, which was good but a bit fishy, ​​making the lack of lemon (it was served with a rather bland butter-chardonnay sauce) inexcusable. It was served with rather ho-hum carrot shavings and buttered potatoes.

My friend’s Hereford beef NY strip fared much better. Tender, meaty and well seasoned, it was a steak we returned for.

The chicken Parmesan served over linguine with a fresh, bright tomato sauce was delicious, but you really can’t beat DeGidio’s $8 cheaper, larger-portioned version.

However, the delicious sage brown butter-bathed pumpkin ravioli was a winner and worth ordering again.

We were too full for dessert, which was brought on an old-style dessert tray so you could check before ordering.

The consensus from my friends who live downtown was that 1881 was a nice addition to the walkable dining options and they would probably come here for drinks and dinner while sitting at the nice bar. There are definitely areas where the restaurant could improve, but overall it’s a nice option for neighbors, train travelers and pre-event dining.

Small Bites are first looks at new or changed restaurants that are not intended to be definitive reviews.

1881 by Lake Elmo Inn

Where: 214 E. Fourth Street, St. paul

Contact: 952-698-1881; 1881bylei.com

Prices: Entrees start at $15-$28; sandwiches (lunch only) $14-$20; appetizers, $27-$48

Good to know: The lunch menu includes burgers; gluten-free and vegetarian options available