If I had three wishes, I would use one of them as Three Wishes’ lamb vindaloo for the rest of my life. Could this be Taipei’s best Indian curry?

• Written by: Hollie Younger / Contributing reporter

There’s no shortage of Indian restaurants in Taipei these days. Just check my Uber Eats order history. But any authentic international dish needs knowledgeable chefs who not only cook their own home cuisine but also don’t succumb to local tastes. India’s savory, spicy and creamy taste doesn’t immediately pair well with Taiwan’s sweet tooth and aversion to spice, leading to a lot of weird hybrids and ultimately disappointment. If your korma is indistinguishable from your butter chicken, you know you’re wrong.

But Three Wishes (神燈搓一下) in Taipei’s Daan District (大安) is in a league of its own. It’s spicy when I want it, then it’s gluttonously creamy and coconutty; is unapologetically original.

New Delhi native Andy Singh Arya is the owner, head chef and social media personality of the Three Wishes Instagram page, where his larger-than-life personality shines through, cracking jokes using the impressive Mandarin skills he has acquired over 20 years on the island. Its many restaurants have become Taiwanese staples for great, home-style, authentic Indian cuisine, and their legacy lives on at Three Wishes. Yes, these three themed restaurants were once perhaps better known as Bollywood. New name, same menu, we won’t ask.

Photo: Hollie Younger

When we walked in, the fried spices hit us like a tidal wave; cumin, garlic, garam masala. The space is equally warm and inviting, and on a rainy Tuesday evening, almost every table is occupied. The open kitchen judiciously juts out twice the width of the plate; South Indian crispy pancake-like cylinders are filled with potatoes and a variety of fillings. We sit by the window under the jeweled lanterns and start ordering.

The menu is surprising at first; Three Wishes’ mission is to bring together cuisines from around the world; not just north and south Indian curries and dosas, but Mexican burritos and tacos, Middle Eastern hummus and grilled meats, plus some truffle fries and cheese sticks that have apparently been literally thrown to hell.

If I’ve learned anything from Gordon Ramsay’s Kitchen Nightmares, it’s to stick to what you know and keep the menu small, please. We’re making a choice for Indians only, pretending it’s what they know best. We were right, it was perfect.

Photo: Hollie Younger

Three Wishes lamb vindaloo (NT$320) is the best Indian curry I’ve tried in the city. We were warned when ordering: This is extremely spicy – are you sure? It comes with a demonic dark red pepper on top and an ominous, waving red flag.

Now, my only complaint was that there was too much noise for what was essentially a medium spicy curry. Madras level if you will.

But it didn’t need to be so spicy that it would blow your head off and burn your mouth. The flavor that carries the dish in an unexpected and delicious way is the slow-cooked, melt-in-your-mouth lamb meat. This distinctively rich meaty flavor takes the lead with a decidedly strong hit of spice that enlivens the backup singer, the sign of a great curry that has been cooking for hours.

Photo: Hollie Younger

All curries include a generous serving of salad and a small appetizer, rice, papad and slices of naan bread to enjoy all that goodness.

Our second blindfold is again a challenging proposition. Goan Fish Curry (NT$400). Once again, these guys nailed the protein: not an afterthought or an accompaniment, but always the star of the dish. Large piece of perfectly cooked white fish, no bones or gristle in sight. Topped with freshly grated coconut, this creamy, smooth curry is more like a savory korma. Crazy, decadent and gypsy, a fantastic contrast to the acidity of the tomato-based vindaloo.

The portions are quite large – in hindsight, a starter was completely unnecessary, but the Pani Puri (NT$200) is a nice traditional touch. A favorite Indian street snack, these hollow balls of thin dough are broken open and filled with a curry potato mixture and finally a type of spicy “water” before popping them whole into the mouth. These are relatively light and refreshing as an appetizer, and certainly texturally adventurous. The samosas (NT$400), on the other hand, pushed us into competitive eating territory with their doughy size.

Photo: Hollie Younger

There’s a reason why Singh Arya’s restaurants are Taipei legend; When it comes to curries with spicy, lively and bold flavours, it still can’t be beat.

Photo: Hollie Younger

Photo: Hollie Younger